Tag Archives: George Washington

Exploring American History along the National Road

Contributed by Sheena Baker of Somerset County Chamber of Commerce

Earlier this year, we decided to explore the birth of a nation by traveling along the National Road through the Laurel Highlands of southwestern Pennsylvania.

The National Road—modern day U.S. Route 40—was the first federally funded highway in the U.S. and set a precedent for a national highway system and future public works projects. Beginning in Cumberland, Maryland, the route passes through the Cumberland Narrows (which was once one of only a few navigable routes across the Appalachian Mountain Range) before continuing northwest into Pennsylvania, across the Allegheny Mountains, and into the Ohio River Valley. The route’s earliest forms were buffalo trails and Native American footpaths. In the mid-1700s, Maryland frontiersman Thomas Cresap and Delaware Chief Nemacolin led an expedition to widen the trail for freight and trade into the Ohio Territory. From 1754–1755, Lieutenant Colonel George Washington and Major General Edward Braddock widened Nemacolin’s Trail farther during their failed campaigns to drive the French from Fort Duquesne in what is now Pittsburgh.

Image: Sheena Baker

Image: Sheena Baker

In 1806, the Jefferson Administration approved plans to build a multi-state national highway from Cumberland westward to open settlement into the Ohio River Valley and the Midwest. Following the route set forth by Nemacolin, Washington, and Braddock, construction on the National Road began in 1811 and reached Wheeling, West Virginia (then Virginia) in 1818. From there, the highway continued across Ohio, Indiana, and nearly all of Illinois before funding for the project ran dry in the 1830s.

From the late 1810s to the 1850s, the more-than 600-mile National Road served as a gateway to the west as the main route from the east coast to the U.S. interior. Today, 90 miles of the highway—sometimes referred to as the National Pike or the Cumberland Road—pass through southwestern Pennsylvania, including more than 40 miles in Somerset and Fayette counties in the Laurel Highlands, which was the focus of our exploration on this particular weekend.

Image: Sheena Baker

Image: Sheena Baker

Traveling from east to west as settlers would have in the 19th century, our first stop was at the Petersburg Toll House along Old Route 40 in Addison, Somerset County. When the National Road became too expensive to maintain in the 1830s, the federal government turned maintenance over to each individual state. Maryland, Pennsylvania, and Virginia turned the highway into a toll road and constructed tollhouses every 15 miles to collect money to pay for the upkeep of the heavily traveled route.

Image: Sheena Baker

Image: Sheena Baker

Constructed in 1835, the Petersburg Toll House was known as Gate Number One, the first tollhouse in Pennsylvania across the Mason-Dixon Line. Now one of only three remaining tollhouses along U.S. 40, the structure serves as a museum that is open by appointment and is owned by the Great Crossings Chapter of the National Society Daughters of the American Revolution.

After leaving Addison, we continued westward, crossing the Youghiogheny River Lake and passing centuries-old inns, houses, and other structures on our way to our next destination: Fort Necessity National Battlefield.

Image: Sheena Baker

Image: Sheena Baker

Inside the site’s impressive Interpretive and Education Center, we learned how precursors to the French and Indian War and the worldwide Seven Years War were fought in the Laurel Highlands. In the spring of 1754, a young 22-year-old Washington led a failed attempt to push the French from Fort Duquesne at the forks of the Ohio River in what is now Pittsburgh. Following a controversial skirmish at nearby Jumonville Glen, Washington suffered defeat at his “Fort of Necessity” and was forced to retreat. He returned the following year under the command of the somewhat inexperienced Braddock in another attempt to force the French from Fort Duquesne. Again the British were defeated, suffering more than 900 casualties, including Braddock whose grave is marked by a large monument along the highway one mile west of Fort Necessity. (Incidentally, the British finally forced the French from Fort Duquesne in 1758 under the leadership of General Edward Forbes, whose march westward helped shape the Laurel Highlands’ other historic highway: U.S. Route 30, aka the Lincoln Highway.)

In addition to offering a reconstructed version of Fort Necessity, interactive displays, and five miles of walking trails, Fort Necessity National Battlefield also details the history of the National Road. During our visit, we traveled back through time and learned about the highway’s construction, its decline during the industrial railroading age, and its rebirth as an automobile “motor touring” highway in the 20th century. The Mount Washington Tavern, a former stagecoach stop overlooking the reconstructed fort, is part of the Fort Necessity National Battlefield and serves as a museum depicting life along the National Road during its heyday.

Having known very little about the French and Indian War or the National Road before my visit to Fort Necessity, I left quite impressed and eager for more information on how both affected the history of the U.S. I would recommend anyone with an interest in history to visit the National Park Service site.

Image: Sheena Baker

Image: Sheena Baker

With a better understanding of what British troops and early settlers faced traversing southwestern Pennsylvania in the days before automobiles and other modern conveniences made travel so easy, we continued westward, keeping our eyes peeled for the white obelisk mile markers denoting the byway. Stone markers were initially placed at five-mile intervals on the south side of the National Road between Cumberland and Wheeling during the highway’s construction, but were later replaced by cast iron markers at one-mile intervals on the north side of the route in 1835.

At the top of Chestnut Ridge, we were treated to a stunning view of Uniontown and the surrounding countryside before descending into the valley below. Following Business Route 40, we navigated the streets of Uniontown, once a major center of business along the National Road.

Near the center of town, we stumbled upon the George C. Marshall Memorial Plaza, a tree-lined spot at the intersection of West Main and West Fayette Streets near Marshall’s boyhood home. Several statues and the Flags of Nations celebrate his life and narrative plaques tell Marshall’s story. The history and significance of the National Road, which passed through his hometown, was not lost on Marshall as a child and can be linked to his pursuit of a military career. Marshall rose to become a preeminent World War II General, U.S. Army Chief of Staff, Secretary of State, and Secretary of Defense, among his other notable achievements and positions. In 1953, he earned the Nobel Peace Prize for his role in developing the post-World War II European Recovery Program (better known as the Marshall Plan). According to History.com, Marshall is one of the most respected soldiers in U.S. history, second only to Washington, another famous George with ties to the region.

From Uniontown we continued our journey westward, stopping briefly to see the Searight Toll House. The structure is similar in design to the Petersburg Toll House and was also constructed in 1835. Searight Toll House is home to the “Off to Market” sculpture, one of five full-size, bronze outdoor sculptures constructed at specific locations for a National Road Sculpture Tour designed to augment visitors’ educational experiences in learning about the historic highway.

Image: Sheena Baker

Image: Sheena Baker

A few miles from the Searight Toll House, we reached our final destination: historic Brownsville on the banks of the Monongahela River. Like Uniontown and other hamlets along the National Road, Brownsville was once a major industrial hub as well as a center for steamboat construction and river freight hauling, eclipsing nearby Pittsburgh in size until the mid-1800s.

From Brownsville, the National Road continues onward through Washington County, into West Virginia, and beyond. Though the National Road officially ends in Vandalia, Illinois, today U.S. 40 stretches 2,285.74 miles across 12 states from New Jersey to Utah.

The New Fish in Town: Northern Snakeheads

Contributed by Bill Howard, of Bill Howard’s Outdoors and Bow Adventures Magazine.

In the 1760’s, George Washington made a living from running his plantation at Mount Vernon, located on the banks of the Potomac River. As an additional source of revenue, he spent time catching the many shad than ran up river annually. Washington became an expert at fishing and netting these silvery fish. In fact, his fishing prowess may have contributed to our victory in the American Revolution; he was able to harvest shad during the famine-stricken period of 1777-78 in Valley Forge.

Now, within eyeshot of Washington’s historic home, most of us aren’t thinking about shad, because a fish old George never encountered has taken hold of the ecosystem like few other invaders can.

photo (13)The Northern Snakehead made an appearance in a pond in Maryland back in 2002. Northern snakeheads were also caught on Little Hunting Creek, a small tributary off the Potomac, in 2004. Since that time, the snakehead’s population has boomed in the area.

The Potomac Snakehead Tournament is being held June 29th and June 30th out of Smallwood State Park in Maryland this year. Last year, I set out after the snakehead with bow and arrow the weekend after the annual tournament, in which nearly 1,400 pounds of snakeheads were caught and turned in. I targeted bodies of water to fish at by searching the Internet. Just weeks before my planned trip to the area, a potential world record was caught by hook and line. The only thing keeping the fish from garnering world record status was that the angler filleted it before using a certified scale.

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And that’s just eight years after the first snakeheads were caught in the area! You can understand how states like North Carolina have concerns about snakeheads overtaking the ecosystem.

Through Google maps and Yahoo maps, I looked for areas where underwater vegetation could be seen from satellite images. Since the snakehead likes weedy areas, these seemed to be the best possible locations. I printed a map, drew boxes around the areas I would hunt, and began searching for public boat accesses.

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Virginia has several regional parks with boat launches on that particular stretch of the Potomac. I spoke with officials to find out where I could park overnight, as I would be on the water through the nighttime hours. The two ramps I used over the weekend were at Leesylvania State Park and Pohick Bay Regional Park. Both provided great launches.

One of the keys to success was to watch the tides. Especially in the upper Pohick Bay and Accotink Bay locales, the water can get shallow, quickly beaching all but shallow draft vessels like kayaks. If you are deep into the bay, it may take up to an hour to get out using a trolling motor once the low tide is approaching, as an outboard motor will not be able to be lowered.

Some advice? Always look in the sides of the floating weeds and pads. The snakehead enjoys waiting amongst the vegetation for its prey.

When spooked or shot at, the snakehead will often appear to take off, leaving a cloud of muddy water. If you wait for it to settle, the snakehead may still be in the same place. It uses this as a means of camouflage and does not mind standing its ground.

Remember to kill it once it’s in the boat. State laws prohibit the possession of live snakeheads. If you do not wish to remove the head immediately, be sure to pull out the gills and throw the fish on ice. And don’t worry about its reputation or looks – the snakehead is likely one of the best tasting fish you’ll ever try.

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